How to fit Vinyl Lettering
Application of Vinyl Lettering is a relatively
straightforward process. All you need are a few simple
tools, a good eye and a little care.
Tape Measure
Scissors
Craft knife of Stanley knife.
Plastic Applicator (supplied with your order).
Masking Tape or sellotape.
1. Baseline
The lettering will be supplied as a sandwich of three layers. The top layer is the Application paper, next is your lettering or graphics and finally a carrier sheet. When you get your lettering, unpack it and allow it to lie flat for a couple of hours if possible. With a ruler or straightedge, draw a pencil line along the base of one line of your lettering. This is to help get it straight when applied.
2. Preparing the substrate
Make sure that the surface that you are going to attach your lettering to is clean and dry. Don’t clean it with any solvent based cleaners unless there are stubborn marks and if you do use a solvent, thoroughly clean again with soap and water to remove the solvent residue and allow to dry.
Take two small pieces of masking tape and attach these to the top corners of your lettering sandwich. If you are applying the sign to a window, use sellotape instead as masking tape does not adhere very well to glass. Roughly position the sheet where you want it to be and press the masking tape down.
3. Adjust and fix
Find a straight edge to check the position against and adjust the sheet until it is centred and level or you are happy with the position. We usually recommend measuring from the straight edge, to the bottom of a letter on one side and then on the other, and adjust till both are the same. Also adjust the lettering on a left and right basis until it is either centred or aligned as required.
4. Apply Hinge
When the position is correct, apply a length of masking tape along the top edge of the sheet to form a hinge.
5. Cut into sections
Now make several vertical cuts, between the letters, from the bottom edge to the top. Ideally the cuts should be about 12 to 18 inches apart. This is to make the job easier to handle. On small signs of under 30mm wide this step is not required.
6. Application
Take the first of your cut sections and fold it back along the hinge so that the backing paper is now towards you.
7. Remove backing
Carefully peel back and remove the backing paper, leaving the letters attached to the application paper. Take care when doing this not to let go of the application sheet nor allow it to come into contact with the substrate until you are ready to apply it.
8. Laying Down
Keeping the application sheet taught against the hinge, lower the free end until it is about 60-70mm away from the substrate. Using the applicator, press both the application paper and the letters down on to the substrate. Do this in a series of sweeps from the top centre, out to one side and then the other. Move down the application paper, overlapping each sweep with the next one. When you reach the bottom, release the paper and sweep out the final strip.
Complete the process by firmly (but not vigourously) sweeping with the applicator, across the application tape, left to right and up and down.
9. Remove application tape
Once your lettering is in place, remove the application paper by steadily peeling it away to leave the lettering behind. If any letters start to come away with the tape, stop and repeat the previous step again concentrating on the letter(s) that are coming away. Finally, gently rub the lettering down again with a soft cloth.
10. Repeat with other sections
Repeat this process with other sections, until the job is complete.
Application to Windows
When applying graphics to shop or vehicle windows, a couple of other considerations need to be observed. Window graphics are usually applied to the inside, so need to be reverse cut. Firstly, it's not so easy to see the image when working on the inside of a window. To make things easier, mark out the baseline (as in Step 1) then draw around the sides, top and bottom of the graphic on the application paper. This will help with positioning.
Second, use sellotape rather than masking tape as masking tape does not stick well to glass.
Wet or Dry?
There are two methods of applying graphics, the dry method described above and the wet method. For the majority of lettering the dry method is the best, however for larger lettering (250mm and above) and for graphics that contain large solid areas, the wet method is recommended.
Both methods follow exactly the same process up to Step 7. When using the wet method you should apply a solution of mildly soapy water to the substrate before laying down the vinyl. This acts like a barrier and prevents the vinyl sticking immediately. When you use the applicator to squeeze down the vinyl, the water is mostly expressed from behind the vinyl but a thin layer remains and this allows for repositioning if required. The wet method also means that any bubbles trapped beneath the vinyl are water bubbles rather that air. As these cannot be compressed, they will eventually migrate to the edge of the vinyl and release themselves, resulting in a smooth finish.
Air bubbles
If you do get any bubbles in the vinyl using either method, DO NOT try and press them out to the side using the applicator. Use a pin to prick the bubble then gently press the vinyl towards the centre of the bubble to express the air or water. It's better to prick a bubble and leave it for a few days to sort itself out than it is to try and remove all the air and in so doing wrinkle the vinyl.
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